how well Lets start with that, as a first notice those AGR pics do not show any secondary or micro bevels. Another thought I just had though is that you can get a similar result on say – Henckels – if you push them to too fine of an edge, they just won’t hold it and will roll while they’ll hold it at say 1000 grit. A flat grind blade might have no discernible beginning of the grind, because the grind can take a gentle slope beginning from the spine all the way to the cutting edge.. The scandi grind allows you to build a fire easily Very ergonomically designed Cons Might be uncomfortable to handle without gloves TOPS Knives B.O.B. You hold the knife at a fixed angle and move the knife, in the same angle, alongside, for instance, a sharpening stone . There is a better alternative: The smooth, slim, oval profile of the convex grind offers less resistance to materials, is superior to the Scandi on all points and will do everything better. of very light forth and back strokes ensures that I keep my "convex" motion. The Scandi Grind, along with the High Flat Grind, is more common today. Scandi or V grind, is type of flat grind. The Scandi has a primary grind with no secondary bevel and it is basically a saber grind. So I have all ready been working on reprofiling the grind on my Kabar to a scandi-grind. Scandi grind is used on most knives that are thick (3+mm) and need to have a primeri grind that will not have a cutting resistant behind the primary edge. I do not recommend turning your knife with an edge bevel into a scandi grind. Sharpen the same way you would with any scandi grind, by putting the bevel flat against the stone, and drawing the knife across it. The Finnish puukko is an example of a Scandinavian-ground knife. Which brings us to Sabre Grind – (AKA “zero sabre grind” or “scandi”, short for “Scandanavian” grind) – The sabre is the same as a flat grind, except the bevel doesn’t extend all the way to the spine. A scandi grind, however, could also start to work against you if the edge has become too vulnerable after you have sharpened it. What is a Saber Scandi Flat grind blade. Use soap and water to clean up any residue on your blade. The first step in sharpening is to clean your knife. The grind, of course, is what makes a knife sharp. The High Flat and Scandi grinds are ideal for whittling or woodworking. It can be done but requires particular patience The cont. Scandi grinds sort of fall in the middle ground because while they do require more work to come out precise and even, they don't require a second set-up like a flat or hollow grind with a secondary bevel does. Hopefully that helps. With Scandi (Sabre) blades the grind will start below the midway point, towards the edge. I think the scandi grind is usually 13 to 15 per side. Verdict If your bushcraft knife needs are limited to working with wood, you’ll find a Scandi grind … The primary grind may be concave, flat, or convex. Worksharp has no attachment to sharpen a scandi grind nor any claim that it will. You can tell the . Knives sold as having a "Scandi Grind" do not all have the same grind. A scandi near 1/4" thick would be a waste of steel IMO. i'm thinking these sharpeners are good cuz its a (V) shape like the scandi i've seen these sharpers and never really used one. Chisel grind — As on a chisel , only one side is ground (often at an edge angle of … Of course by adding that primary edge you lose the Scandi, but that is the general advice I have offered in the past, and what I have done, for non-Scandi knives when this happens. There’s just so much steel to be removed. Unlike the high flat grind, the grind does not begin tapering until closer to the edge. See Mora knives, Enzo, etc for examples and look at my drawings again. This grind, along with the high If the maker designed the knife to have an edge bevel, than turning it into a scandi grind will often make the blade too thin and will have a weak edge Paid Subscribers don't see ads! I chose the D2 steel, Scandi grind. Discussion in 'Wilderness & Survival Skills' started by Diomedes Industries, Dec 27, 2008. Do you think a 5mm thick blade with a scandi grind will work, or do I need to put a flat grind on it. Accepting an advice is good. I hope you find it helpful and thanks for watching. Scandi's hit they're full thickness really quick and when cutting through material, becomes a drawback. A) what type of grind do you Instead, the sabre grind will typically only be ground to around the mid-way point on the blade. Most guys Concave, or hollow, grinds are quick to sharpen, but delicate. Well I figured out how to do it and put a shaving sharp edge on my Habilis Trade knife . I’ve been thinking about trying to sharpen a scandi grind on the Worksharp since I first got it. They do not use the same sharpening technique and honestly completely counter the advantages of a Scandi’s flat bevel.) The broad side of the blade will appear “flat What is the best knife grind for bushcraft skinning hunting camping food prep carving survival fire starting. A “Scandi” refers to the type of grind used to produce the blade’s edge. As mentioned before, a convex edge has a curved blade. All I had to do is add the scales, for which I used stabilized curly birch. My normal scandis have an inclusive angle of 25 degrees or something. The knives I am looking to make are kitchen knives for meat/vegi chopping. There isn't much need to belabor the basics. My question is that I don't have a belt sander, only files. Sharpening a flat grind, scandi grind or hollow grind is done the same way. The pronounced bevel allows you to easily follow the edge in relation Also, if you do go with something like that it doesn't need to be so *note that How do you strop a Scandi Grind? On scandi, if I only did edge leading strokes to remove the burr (which I do exclusively on v bevel knives though), you very likely end up with a slight micro bevel on top of the "scandi-vex". I have heard good/bad reviews for scandi for kitchen type knives. It comes in s30v or D2 steel, Scandi or flat grind. Any chip in the edge will force you to regrind on a belt sander, a job requiring pretty sophisticated fixtures. A very simple way to do that scandi/convex grind, or to change your scandi grind to full flat convex, is to get some used band of sandpaper from backstands (or to ask politely a knifemaker nearby your location, usually they don't Logged Giving an advice is easy. In addition, because of the large, wide edge you can see everything you do during the sharpening 9 dps would be more like the primary bevel on a full flat grind. Scandi grinds take a long time to sharpen, even if it’s just a touch-up. 9 dps would be more like the primary bevel on a full flat grind… I have been using 80 grit sandpaper purchased from a hardware store wrapped around an arkansas stone to do this and it is taking a long time. I spent a few hours grinding it down to a zero grind scandi, only to discover that the angle was now too fine. Can someone please tell me the proper way to sharpen a Scandi Grind. i have a new frosts mora and wondering the best way to sharpen a scandi grind knife! Hi, I believe I've ruined some of my knives already :) (although they do shave) so it's time to ask about this. This means that much more of the blade is the same thickness as the spine. A Sabre grind without a secondary bevel is called a "Scandinavian grind", which is easier to sharpen due to the large surface. This one must have been about 15 degrees inclusive, so it cut like a laser … How I sharpen my Mora's. The Scandi and High Flat Grinds are also the recommended grinds for survival knives because they're far easier to sharpen in the field. The "Scandi Grind," as defined by the British in the now-defunct BritishBladge.com , has a single low bevel - one grind starting about 75% of the way down I have a Tops MSK that I would like to touch up, there are videos on YouTube but you guys always have the best dirt on maintaining gear, especially blades. See Mora knives, Enzo, etc for examples and look at my drawings again. The modified grind will still allow the ease of sharpening you get with a scandi grind.